Ashley from Cornwall.


Patrick had a quad, but one of the fin boxes broke. So he decided to saw off the tail, hack a slit big enough to shove a single fin down the middle, and apply a thin coat of something resembling clear nail polish to the exposed foam. Innovative! I paddled out with him but we didn’t sit in the same spot for me to see how his experiment turned out.

I was so excited when Eric R. Lorey, a professor at Cranbrook Upper School, contacted me to let me know he is teaching a new religion and philosophy course that will include the study of Intellasphyxia in its curriculum. Cranbrook Art Museum re-opened on 11-11-11 to include a vast collections vault viewable to the public, particularly to students of the art school and high school. Looking at the syllabus above, this is an ambitious, forward-thinking discourse for the high school level. I’m certain there will be lots of interesting papers to come out of this!


Building swell at nightfall saw tow-in crews and a few prone paddlers in Hanalei Bay.





It’s a cruel joke, mostly for tourists, that summer comes to So Cal in November rather than July.


“Good waves.” — Molokai


“Good friends.” — Ed

Molokai’s foam board isn’t sexy, but it’s honest. He broke his collarbone skating a pool. He surfs more than he skates, and was happy enough watching the waves from the lot. When I asked Ed what he was thankful for, he closed his eyes and really thought about it. “Good friends,” he said.

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